Osoby : Jirka Nouza (já), Michael Rychna a možná i Venca.
Info na inetu
České stránky kamarádů o Kyrgyzii
Tan Šan 1995
Výstup na Khan Tengri
Expedice H. Bielefeldta
Vladimir Kopylov - Tien-Shan
Lonely Planet
Střední Asie 1999
Kyrgyzská cestovka Top Asia
Kyrgyzstan online
Internet Resources in Kyrgyzstan
Kyrgyzstan tourism info
Mittelasien
Photographs of Tien Shan mountains
Kazachstán
- registrace za $50
- Almaty (bus do: Biškeku, Čolpon-Aty)
- Charyn - grand canyon
- treky z Šimbulaku (Zaljlijskij Alatau, sedla Ozorny, Kakajryk 5 dní)
Kyrg.
Placené oblasti Kyrg.
Terskei Range
Inylchek glacier area - Khan Tengri a Pik Pobedy (východ)
Lenin peak area
Ak-su and Karavshin area - Pamíroajal
Ala Archa area - Korona (jižně od Biškeku)
Příhraniční oblasti:
inylček
a dál??
Lékárnicka
AqauSteril Tramp - chlorac do vody (300Kč)
Smecta
Imodium - nejslabší antimalarikum (30Kč)
Fenolax
Jodizol - dezinfekce (vodka na rány nestačí :)
obinadlo, škrtidlo
...
Zásady s policajtama:
1. nikdo nic nevi, takze se mu da nakecat cokoliv
2. mit trpelivost a cas (nebo aspon delat, ze ho mas) a bejt v pohode.
oni snadno vyciti, ze se jich bojis a naopak, porad nesmyslne
argumentovat
3. nenechat se nikam zatahnout, tvrdit, at se vse odbude na ulici
4. vyhrozovat poselstvem (vyslanectvi) a stiznostmi
5. zapisovat si dulezite jejich cisla
6. nepoustet z ruky pasy, oni svoji legitimaci taky nepoustej. ten pas
jim ale nechat dukladne prohlednout. listuj s nim sam
7. prachy patri do tatanky (ty nejvetsi)
Štěpán
vojaci, pasovaci, policajti
Jako velmi spatnou bych hodnotil situaci v Tajikistanu, fakt nevis, s cim na tebe prijdou. Uzbeci jsou neprijemni, ale nejsou tvrdi (daji se ukecat).
Kyrgystan - jedani s policajtama je dost otazkou citlive volby mezi taktem a tvrdosti. Nam se velmi osvedcilo byt na ne proste tvrdi - napr. ukaz penize - razna odpoved proste penize vam neukazu (resp. nedam do vasi ruky), ale pritom se chovat slusne. Ale kdyz by byl clovek hodne tvrdej, dokazu si predstavit, ze by se i nasrali a to by bylo zle. Neni-li clovek tvrdy, muzou ho dost odrbat (napr. my jsme behem dvoumesicniho pobytu pri dotatecne tvrdosti pouze jednou platili uplatek a to na Tajicke hranici). Pas a jine doklady (registraci) dat do ruky pouze uniformovanemu policistovi a hlidat si ho, aby s tim nekam neodesel. Ale i tak se dost zdrahat vydat dokument z ruky. Vse vyridit na miste v terenu (a trvat si na tom), nechodit na stanici (pokud mozno) - kdyz vas fizl jen tak na ulici oslovi. Ihned po jeho nahlidnuti do dokladu si ho pokudmozno vysomrovat nazpatek. Poridit si xerokopie vsech dokladu, i permitu.
V Kazachstanu jsou obcas na ulici policejni budky (2x2m), do budky s nim mozno zajit. Zkuste nebudit dojem ze jste rusaci, dost je nemaji radi, zejmena v Kazachstanu, napr. po osloveni policajta se da rict, ze mluvite jen spatne Rusky, protoze jste z Ceskoslovenska, vetsinou zmeknou.
Nejvetsi problem jsou tajni policajti, zejmena v Bishkeku - prijdou k vam, nenapadne ukazou salinkartu, jako ze jsou tajni a at jdete s nima. V zadnem pripade nikam nechodit, pas nedavat. Vetsina z nich jsou falesni. Na ne jsme byli nejdrsnejsi a reagovali treba smichem, ceskou hlaskou at jdou do hajzlu a odchodem. Vetsinou to zabralo. Nebo jako ze tam 50m za rohem nas uze proverjal kolega. Nebo proste, ze nema uniformu. Nejlepe se pokud mozno ani nezacit bavit a reagovat rychlym odchodem a nejakou nesrozumitelnou hlaskou.
S vojakama se vetsinou bezne do styku nedostanete. Jinak velke procento mistnich slouzilo u nas na vojne. S pohranicakama to chce trpelivost a trvat si na svem (mate-li dokumenty v poradku). Pripadne se dovolavat nacalnika. Vyjimkou je Tajikistan.
Ukrajinci vetsinou chteji male uplatky a tvrde na nich trvaji, zatimco stredoasijci vyzaduji vetsi, ale daji se ukecat, ze nic. Nevm jake mas zkusenosti s fizlama v evropskym Rusku, ale ja dobry - korektni, boji se postihu mafie, neodrbavaji, odrbe te jen mafie.
Celechovsky Petr [celda@econ.muni.cz]
Popis cesty Inylcek:
Hello Michael,
it's a pleasure for me that you enjoyed my webpage. The only access to basecamp Inylchek south is from Maida Adir (about 15 km or so from Inylchek village, altitude 2500 m) via the very long southern Inylchek glacier. As we flew in by helicopter, there were two Dutch guys who didn't want to fly, so they went in on foot. They arrived after four days, and if I remember right, they reported that the glacier didn't allow proceeding very fast. The surface is very rough with small rivers and water-filled basins. One cannot go straight but always has to walk around these basins. Therefore I think you will need at least crampons, probably also an ice axe. Crossing the small rivers often was only possible by some long jumps, especially in the afternoon. We crossed the S Inylchek glacier on our way to Pik Abaja, and the 3 km distance took us almost 3 hours. It may be easier when one doesn't have to cross all the glacier, but the way up the valley is clearly being complicated by the crevasses, rivers and basins. For quite some distance there is no moraine ridge at the side of the glacier. If you look at the map on my website, I guess you have to walk on the ice from the "ik" of "lednIK juzhnyj engylchek" to the "yj", so that's at least 10 km.
To find more information, maybe from people who have actually walked up the south Inylchek glacier, you could try to ask a question in the newsgroup rec.climbing (if you are not familiar with that, try www.deja.com which is a WWW interface for those newsgroups).
By the way, did you consider the very ugly weather in the central Tien Shan? There's quite a lot of places with a nicer climate to go to....
Hartmut Bielefeldt
Pik Pesni Abaja, 4901 m
Hello Michael,
the only peak that comes to my mind is Pik Pesni Abaja, 4901 m, southwest of the camp, which we also climbed. Most is scree and loose rocks, just simple but sometimes steep hiking terrain; the last hundred meters maybe snowfields. By the way, as far as I remember, the person the mountain is named after, Pesni Abaja, was a Kyrgyz songwriter or poet, and he (the person, not the mountain) is depicted on one of the Kyrgyz banknotes. You can see a picture of the mountain on my website. I don't remember exactly where the way to basecamp goes on foot. The first part is the river valley, then the plain before the glacier (possibly river crossings!), and after that on the glacier where for some part there may be a moraine to follow. But I hadn't made any photos of the glacier during the flight up - so that's just from what I remember. I haven't got any more maps of KGS, but for general purpose we found very useful the map "Hildebrands Urlaubskarte GUS" at scale 1:3.5Mio. At least, in 1992 we found our way with the chartered bus to Samarkand, and the driver would for sure never have found it.
Have fun in Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan
Hartmut
--
Hartmut Bielefeldt
Sonnhalde 8, D-88699 Frickingen, Germany
e-mail: mailto:Hartmut@Bielefeldt.de
WWW: http://www.Bielefeldt.de